Color Seasons 101

This is the education section from my color season analyses, published free. It is everything I explain to a client before I show them their season. The only thing it cannot tell you is which season is yours.

What a Color Season Actually Is

Think about your favorite top or lipstick: the one that makes you feel unstoppable. Now try to describe its color the way you'd describe the sky to a friend. Is it warm or cool? Bright or soft? Light or dark?

Those three questions (stylists call them temperature, brightness, and value) are the entire engine of color analysis. Every color you'll ever pick up in a store can be described by them, and colors that share the same answers flatter the same faces.

A "color season" is just a group of colors that share two of those traits. Soft Autumn colors are warm and soft. Bright Winter colors are cool and bright. There are four familiar seasons (winter, spring, summer, autumn) and three versions of each, for a total of twelve seasons. One of them is yours.

The Three Dials, Side by Side

Here are those three dials in action. In each pair, the colors are "the same color." They just answer the three questions differently.

Temperature: Warm or Cool?

Cool greens on the top row, warm greens on the bottom. See how the warm ones lean grassy while the cool ones look teal?

Brightness: Bright or Soft?

Bright blues on the top row, soft blues on the bottom. See how the soft ones have more gray in them?

Value: Light or Dark?

Light blues on the top row, dark blues on the bottom. This one is pretty obvious.

A season is defined by two of these three answers. Some stylists use all three, which produces more than twelve seasons. In my experience that is overkill, and it makes shopping exceptionally tricky. Twelve still gets you looking fantastic.

Warm or Cool, At a Glance

Telling a warm shade from a cool one is the trickiest part of using a palette, so here is the cheat sheet.

  • Reds. Orangey-red and brick run warm. Cherry and purplish-red run cool.
  • Pinks. Salmon and coral-pink run warm. Magenta and purplish-pink run cool.
  • Yellows. Mustard and orangey-yellow run warm. Lemony or highlighter yellow runs cool. Handle yellow with care: most yellows favor the warm seasons regardless.
  • Greens. Grassy means warm. Seafoam and teal mean cool.
  • Blues. Greenish-blue runs warm. Purplish-blue runs cool.
  • Whites. Pure white is cool. Cream is white with yellow added, which makes it the warm seasons' white.
  • Blacks. Pure black is cool and intense. Dark browns are the warm seasons' black. Charcoals are the soft seasons'.

Cool on the left, warm on the right

See how the cool pink looks more magenta and the warm pink looks more salmon?

Temperature takes practice to spot, and nobody nails it from memory on day one. That is why I tell clients to keep their palette on their phone and hold it up next to anything they are about to buy. The comparison is what makes the difference obvious.

Undertone, Overtone, and Why This System Is for Everyone

Overtone is the skin color you see in the mirror: fair, peachy, olive, brown. Undertone is the color temperature underneath: warm or cool.

Here is the part most online quizzes get wrong. Your undertone determines your season, not your overtone. People of every race, ethnicity, and skin tone can have either undertone, which means people of every skin tone can land in any of the twelve seasons. Two people with identical overtones can have opposite seasons.

A quiz that types you by hair color and eye color alone will get plenty of people wrong, and it quietly implies that people with dark skin only fit a handful of seasons. That is why professional stylists drape instead.

Why Draping Beats Quizzes

Draping is the professional method: physically holding colors up to a face and watching what each one does to it. I do it digitally, using a client's actual photo against every season, so they can see the evidence instead of taking my word for it.

Here is what to look for. A color is right for you when:

  • Your skin looks more even and awake.
  • Shadows and imperfections fade.
  • The whites of your eyes look brighter.
  • Your features, meaning your eyes, lips, and smile, pull the viewer's attention.
  • The color does not outshine you. You wear it; it does not wear you.

A wrong color does the opposite. It casts shadows, flattens your skin, and grabs attention that belongs to your face.

Untrained eyes usually cannot articulate any of this. But once you know the checklist, you start seeing it everywhere.

What a draping comparison looks like

This is the same face, in the same lighting, in two different shades. Her skin looks brighter and more even on the right.

This example is taken from one of my favorite color analysis experts on TikTok, @RLGColorConsulting. The client’s skin looks brighter and healthier on the right, in the cool shade. I highly recommend watching these videos.

  • Winter

    Bright Winter
    True Winter
    Dark Winter

    Cool and clear, with high contrast.

  • Spring

    Light Spring
    True Spring
    Bright Spring

    Warm and bright, fresh and clear.

  • Summer

    Light Summer
    True Summer
    Soft Summer

    Cool and soft, with gentle contrast.

  • Autumn

    Soft Autumn
    True Autumn
    Deep Autumn

    Warm and muted, rich and earthy.

That's the method. Which one is yours?